In July 2015, our group of four set out to cross 130 miles of Alaska wilderness, from the volcanoes of Katmai to the edge of Bristol Bay. The purpose of this website is to share our adventure with the rest of the world. It includes photos, trip info, gear reviews, and more. The Katmai backcountry is one of the most unique and spectacular places in all of Alaska, and we hope this website serves as a valuable tool for others to learn about this place.
If you have any questions or comments for us, please feel more than welcome to get in touch.

Background
In 1912, the largest volcanic eruption of the twentieth century occurred in a remote chain of alpine volcanoes on the Alaska Peninsula. The eruption released several cubic miles of ash into the air, temporarily altering the global climate, and filled an adjacent valley hundreds of feet deep with volcanic outflow. For over a decade, gasses and smoke poured out of countless vents in the ground, leading to the site's unforgettable name: The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. In just over a hundred years since the eruption, water has etched magnificent, deep canyons into the volcanic terrain. In the last decades, the rapidly-changing climate has caused the glaciers that once ringed Katmai Caldera and the surrounding peaks to peel back, allowing new, novel non-technical approaches on this terrain. We tend to think of mountain environments as the product of hundreds of millions of years of imperceptible change, but Katmai, with its volcanic eruptions, rapid erosion, and vulnerability to climate change, demonstrates that mountain environments can change radically on a human time scale.
Our team seeks to explore, document, and share this environment and the lessons we can draw from it with a broad public audience.
Meet the Team
Our team brings together decades of trip planning, wilderness travel, and creative media experience.
Brett Woelber
Brett Woelber lives in Anchorage, Alaska. He has extensive experience with expedition planning, wilderness medicine, and boat safety. He works as a geologist and volunteers with the Alyeska ski patrol. In 2013, he was the primary applicant for and winner of the prestigious Fischer-Kellogg Memorial Grant from the American Alpine Club.
Lucas Swart
Lucas was born in the Netherlands and was raised in the Rocky Mountains in Bozeman, Montana where he enjoyed various outdoor activities including mountain biking, rock climbing, and kayaking. He currently lives in Seattle, Washington and spends his time alpine climbing and mountaineering. Other interests include photography, painting, and bread baking.
Paxson Woelber
Paxson grew up climbing, boating, and biking in Anchorage, Alaska. His creative outdoor media work has been featured in National Geographic, the Atlantic, USA Today, the Huffington Post, Outside TV, and more.
Chelsea Ward-Waller
Chelsea is an accomplished endurance athlete, with multiple triathlon wins in major races, and an experienced outdoorswoman. In 2013, Chelsea walked and packrafted over 300 miles across the Alaska arctic as a member of Expedition Arguk.
Where We Went
Our route took us from Dakavak Lake, over the volcanic badlands of the Aleutian Range, and down Naknek Lake to Bristol Bay. Our route provided a complete cross section of Alaska Peninsula terrain and traced one of Alaska's most important watersheds from source to sea, from the high glaciers of Katmai Caldera to the salmon-rich rivers spilling into Bristol Bay.
To download a Google Earth-compatible .kmz file of our route, please click here. If your system does not permit .kmz downloads, please feel free to e-mail us and we'd be happy to send it as an attachment.

Dakavak Lake The salty waters of Dakavak Lake provided an ideal place to land a floatplane on the North Pacific coast and begin our expedition.
Katmai Caldera. Photo courtesy NOAA.
Katmai Caldera Katmai Caldera was formed during the 1912 eruption of Novarupta, when receding magma caused the summit of Mount Katmai to collapse. Simmering pools of mud and rock on the caldera floor were gradually covered by water, which formed a lake hundreds of feet deep.
Novarupta In 1912, the Alaska Peninsula became the site of the largest volcanic event of the twentieth century. The eruption ejected several square miles of ash into the air and filled an adjacent valley with hundreds of feet deep with pyroclastic ash flow, creating the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. The name "Novarupta" refers to the low volcanic dome formed by the eruption.
Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Photo: Paxson Woelber, Cinders to Sea
Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes For a decade and a half after the 1912 eruption, the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes lived up to its name, as smoke and steam billowed from countless fumaroles across the valley floor. Rivers have carved a series of spectacular, deep, and constantly-changing canyons into the soft ash.
Brooks Camp The electric-fence-ringed campground at Brooks Camp is the primary destination for most visitors to Katmai, and is world-renowned for its grizzly bear viewing.
Grizzly bears fishing on Brooks Falls, near Brooks Camp. Photo courtesy Christolph Strassler
Naknek Lake Naknek Lake runs 40 miles across the Alaska Peninsula, from the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes in the east to the outflow into Naknek River in the west. It is prized for its sport fishing and wildlife, which includes wolves, moose, wolverines, many species of birds and fish, and one of the world's highest concentrations of grizzly bears.
King Salmon King Salmon is a small hub in the Bristol Bay region, and plays an important role in government, transporation, and the local sport fishing industry.
Naknek The town of Naknek sits at the mouth of the Naknek River, near the easternmost edge of Bristol Bay. The local economy is almost entirely dependent on the commercial fishing industry in Bristol Bay.
Bristol Bay Bristol Bay is one of the world's premier fisheries, sporting huge numbers of wild king, chum, and silver salmon, and the largest red salmon fishery in the world. Despite its remote and wild character, the Bristol Bay region is undergoing profound change, and faces challenges in fishery management, growing tourism, and pressure for large scale industrial development, including, most notably, the proposed Pebble Mine.
Fishing boats on Bristol Bay. Fisheries management and the prospect of major industrial mining development in the Bristol Bay watershed will define the future of this region. Photo courtesy Emma Forsberg